Exploring Tenerife’s primeval forest
After several intense surfing sessions at Punta del Hidalgo, we decided to explore the spectacular Anaga massif overlooking Tenerife’s northern coast. This escapade in the mountains offered us a striking contrast with the volcanic coastline, and a total immersion in one of Europe’s most unspoilt ecosystems.
A prehistoric laurisilva forest in the heart of Tenerife
As soon as we enter Anaga Rural Park, the atmosphere changes dramatically. The massif, declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 2015, is home to one of the world’s last remaining laurisilva forests – a prehistoric ecosystem that once covered much of Mediterranean Europe. The centuries-old trees, covered in moss and lichen, create a mysterious, almost enchanted atmosphere.
The trail we took from Cruz del Carmen led us through this primeval forest, where lush vegetation filters light, creating golden rays that pierce through the canopy. The constant humidity maintained by the sea of clouds that regularly envelops these peaks enables this exceptional vegetation to survive despite the island’s generally dry climate.
Between a sea of clouds and breathtaking panoramas
One of the most fascinating aspects of our hike was the alternation between immersion in dense forest and breathtaking panoramic vistas. On reaching the mirador de Zapata, we were rewarded with a spectacular view of the rugged north coast. The contrast between the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean and the intense green of the vegetation creates an impressive natural tableau.
The sea-of-clouds phenomenon, particularly common in this part of Tenerife, turned our hike into a surreal experience. We literally walked above the clouds, feeling as if we were floating between heaven and earth. This unique microclimate explains why laurisilve can thrive here when it has disappeared almost everywhere else.
Isolated villages and ancestral agricultural terraces
Our descent to the picturesque hamlet of Taganana introduced us to another fascinating aspect of Anaga: its isolated villages where time seems to have stood still. Clinging to the mountainside, these small villages preserve a traditional way of life, with their red-tiled houses and narrow cobbled streets.
The (wobbly) agricultural terraces that sculpt the slopes bear witness to the ingenuity of the local inhabitants, who have adapted this steep topography to their needs. Vines, potatoes and vegetables grow on these plots conquered from the mountains, perpetuating ancestral farming techniques.
Practical tips for exploring Anaga
For those wishing to follow in our footsteps, a few recommendations: set off early in the morning to take advantage of the light and avoid the influx of visitors on the most popular trails. Temperatures can vary considerably between the coast and the peaks – bring an extra layer and a waterproof windbreaker.
The network of well-marked trails offers hikes for all levels, but we particularly recommend the Sendero de Los Sentidos loop and the trail to Chinamada for a complete immersion in Anaga’s emblematic landscapes.
This day of exploration in the Anaga massif remains a highlight of our stay in Tenerife, offering a fresh perspective on the exceptional ecological diversity of this volcanic island beyond its renowned beaches and surf spots.